Via Ferrata Spodnji plot - Zelenica

In August 2015, a new, very demanding protected climbing route (ferrata) was built, which is led over the southern wall of Spodnje plot in the immediate vicinity of the mountain lodge on Zelenica. After the first 35 meters, the via ferrata splits at the intersection, and in the upper part it follows two variants (the left, easier – “educational protected climbing route” and the right, more difficult part – “sporty, very demanding via ferrata”), both of which end with exits near the top.

The difference in height from the entrance to the exit is 90m, and the total length of the trail-steelhouse (with both legs) is over 180 meters.

The protected climbing route is led over the southern wall of Spodnje Plot, it splits into the lower half and in the upper part it follows two variants (the left easier - "educational protected climbing route" and the right more difficult part - "sporty very demanding via ferrata"), which end with exits near the top.

The difference in height from the entrance to the exit is 90m, and the total length of the trail-steelhouse (with both legs) is over 180 meters.

Starting point: under the southern wall of Spodnje plot

46.430081, 14.237574

Route - course of the route

A very demanding secured climbing route - via ferrata is led over the southern wall of Spodnje plot in the immediate vicinity of the mountain hut on Zelenica. The via ferrata has the shape of the letter Y, after the first 35 meters it splits at the intersection and in the upper part it follows two variants: the left, easier – "educational protected climbing route", and the right, more difficult – "sporty, very demanding via ferrata", both of which end with exits near the peak of Spodnji plot 1682m. The difference in height from the entrance to the exit is 90m for the left version (educational), and 115m for the right version (extremely demanding), and the total length of the trail-steelhouse (with both legs) is over 180 meters.

Access

From the mountain hut on Zelenica, head north 100m (in the direction of the Triangel lift), after the first ascent on the leveling, turn into the forest to the right (Mozic) and follow the well-worn path under the wall to the entrance to the via ferrata (15 minutes from the lodge).

Descent

Both legs of the ferrata end near the top of Spodnje plote. The descent takes place along a well-worn, undemanding path from the summit to the northwest side and further across the pasture towards the hut on Zelenica (20 minutes).

Difficulty

The secured climbing route is laid out in the shape of the letter Y:

lower part: D (8 m), rest A/B
upper left: C, most B and B/C
upper right part: E, with shorter, slightly lighter sections (D, B/C)

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROUTE

The secured climbing route is in the shape of the letter Y.

Bottom part:

The start is easy, with shorter sections graded A/B and B in length of 30m. This section is also suitable for younger and less experienced visitors and for introductory instructions and training on movement along protected climbing routes. At the end of this section (at the first tree next to the steel line) there is still the possibility of an (emergency) exit from the ferrata - to the right to the shed and a return/descent along the well-trodden path (be careful exposed!) back to the entrance.

In the central lower part is the key to the learning secured climbing route - an 8 m high vertical tower, where the difficulty is rated D - here the climber needs some strength in the hands, and even more important is the correct placement of the feet when advancing, as this is the only way to save strength in the hands and we climb successfully and with satisfaction via ferrata.

Above this part, the secured climbing route splits into two upper parts-exits:

Top left:

THE LEARNING SECURED CLIMBING ROUTE is of moderate difficulty (grade B, B/C and C) and is primarily intended for training and education: the cable is passed through natural passages in the wall (fireplace, ledges, slabs, cracks), the climber can take advantage of the natural steps and grips, no additional aids for advancement (except the steel cable) are installed.

After the fork, there is a fireplace, which we climb in the gap and with the help of pulling on the steel cable. We continue in a picturesque traverse in smooth slopes to the left, where we climb on friction (proper soles of mountain shoes!) and use smaller steps. The moderately difficult via ferrata then climbs straight up and past the trees to below the cracks in the upper part. We climb the pass ( B/C ) using several natural steps and handholds, and we climb to the end of the path on a gravel ramp (easier world, B) to the right. This section of the climbing route ends with an exit 15 m west of the top of Spodnje plot.

Upper right:

The SPORTY VERY DEMANDING FERATA is a much more difficult, sporty, airy and scenic part of the ferrata, intended only for the most experienced, qualified and physically prepared climbers (less qualified climbers are advised to climb exclusively with a guide).

After branching off to the right in the lower part of the wall (crossroads-fork), we climb over the vertical, partly overhanging smooth slabs ( E ) to the slightly flatter sides just below the slanting crack under the fireplace. We continue from the fireplace to the left through beautiful transitions with natural steps (D) again into the vertical-vertical (D/E) and through the overhang (very demanding E) to the upper part of the wall. Here the direction turns to the right (to the east), in the easier cross-section (B/C) we breathe a little (beware - it's crumbly!), but at the same time, the abyssal world and the wonderful view to the south and east – towards Ljubelje, Veliki vrh, Korošica – take our breath away. , Košutica,... and towards Mountain Home on Zelenica on the west side. Cross the ledge to the right, descend from the reef tower (2 meters) along the steel line and continue the traverse above the 150m chasm and reach the penultimate section of the trail, the tower (10 m, B/C). On this part, visitors-spectators can already watch us from the saddle east of the top of Spodnje plot (easy route from the NW side). We catch our breath and climb over the exit overhang (10m, E) and reach the exit of the route just a few meters east of the top of Spodnji plot.

Currently, this is the most difficult via ferrata in Slovenia (75 m long, with three longer sections of difficulty E).

The custodian of the protected climbing route is the Mountaineering Association Tržič - GUC Zelenica.

Use of the route, necessary equipment

The secured climbing route is primarily intended for activities within the GUC Zelenica, but all other visitors also have free access and the possibility to use the route free of charge. Visitors are warned: before climbing, check the difficulty of the climbing route and realistically assess your skills and experience; for the climb, provide the appropriate mandatory safety equipment that you know how to use; Mandatory equipment is: helmet, climbing harness and self-protection kit, appropriate mountain footwear; for the right, more difficult part of the ferrata, we recommend the use of an additional shorter umbilical cord, climbing shoes and, if necessary, additional protection with a rope.

GUC Zelenica offers the rental of climbing equipment (in the home on Zelenica), information and the possibility of escort-guiding during the ascent via a secured climbing route.

Use of the trail is at your own risk.